Sweet Ume Kikaida!!!

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good morning. oh my gosh!!! my body is hurting!! arms, legs, shoulders, and back. i think my body got shocked from yesterday. too sore to surf so i’m going to start packing for japan. i have a couple big boxes of prizes for the party and also made some cool banners. waves are looking small today and great for a diving. but if i were to go, i’d probably drown. oh, yesterday during the swim, i seen a lot of fish. i was thinking of taking my spear next time. imagine me crossing the finish line with fish in my pocket? will i get disqualified? haha… what i learned from this swim was:
1. wear a swim cap. i had mine with me but i seen a guy without one at the start line. i asked him it was mandatory, he said no. so i threw mine away. why? because it was pink. the whole race, my hair was covering my goggles so i couldn’t see anything. that was dumb. moving the hair away from my face everytime to see where i was going probably cost me 2 minutes.

2. defog your goggles. my goggles fogged up. when i free dive, it never because i put baby shampoo on it. i have no idea why i didn’t prepare my goggles for the race. stopping and rinsing out my goggles probably cost me 2 minutes.

3. go off your first instinct. for the past 30 years, i know there is current that runs from waimea bay to chuns reef. i surfed out laniakea, chuns, leftovers, and alligator rock hundreds of times and there is always current. my first plan was to head as far out to sea to get away from the current and surge in the inside. when the race started, my mind went blank and i just followed every body. i ended up way inside where the current was the strongest. that probably cost me at least 5 minutes. when i came back to waimea bay, i was talking to my lifeguard friend noah johnson, yeah the same noah johnson who won the eddie aikau contest one year. we were talking about the race and the current. even he said i should have taken the outside line. ahhhh…. regrets? no. stupid? yes….


my number was 489. i woke up this morning and it’s still on my arm. i’m going to get it tattooed today. haha…

back by popular demand, we printed out new stickers. they GO-NAMINORI plate stickers were all but gone!! now we have lots more to give away so if you see me in japan, ask and you shall receive…

this year is flying by so fast. our timor boat trip is coming up and i’m looking forward to getting away from my computer for 2 weeks. i’ll be diving and surfing all day!! oh, and eating sashimi… this is timor 2 years ago and come this october, expect bigger and better things…

i want to thank the ueno-san family for this awesome present!!! KIKAIDA!!!! i’m so happy!!!

and also wanted to thank the ueno-san family for the sweet ume. my mouth is watering. i’ll try some now…. itadakimasu!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide