good morning everybody! 6 am tuesday and i’m still here in hawaii. been on the phone all evening last night trying to figure out whether to go to japan today or not. decided not to go due to lack of swell, and extremely hot weather. i’ll try again tomorrow. the life i live isn’t for everybody. one minute, i’m going. next minute, i’m not. it’s been like that for the past week for the past half of my life. good thing i know how to go with the flow or else i’d be an alcoholic due to stress. since i got back to hawaii 2 1/2 weeks ago, i only drank around 10 beers. that’s awesome considering i use to drink over 10 beers a night. i feel pretty good and am ready for some major kanpai parties in japan. see you all soon!!!
as for now, i’m going surfing! seen some nice clean chest high sets at bowls. see you in the water…
i passed by moanalua bay the other day and seen hundreds of cars and people. it was the finish line to the molokai to oahu paddle race….
jamie mitchell won his 9th world paddleboard title. he paddled 32 miles in just 4 hours and 52 minutes. that’s incredible!!! maybe someday i’ll have to push myself to try. but not now, i’m in swimming mode….
this is a clip of joshua’s big win in california. he’s the king of the grom and what we call “a sleeper.” not too many people know josh until he out powers you and kicks your ass in a heat. then they don’t forget his name….
5 years ago at the pipeline masters, i took this photo of josh, isaiah, and kelia. the were so dam cute!!! what the heck happened???? i wish they can all shrink back to kids again….
