Chicken and Sake….

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good evening. wow, i went down to bowls early this morning and when i pulled into the parking lot, i saw the waves going off! it was 2′ and perfect!! the parking lot was empty so i knew it was uncrowded. ended up only being jeannie chesser and a couple of the old timers out. we scored perfect waves with pretty much nobody around. jeannie and i were talking about it being the best day in a while. it was surely my best surf session since i got back from japan. hope to get it again tomorrow morning….
then i went to waikiki to hang out all afternoon. surfed queen’s and canoes and had a great time!! paradise city!!!

i love walking around on the streets in japan checking out the little mom and pop stores. i stand out there and it reminds me how hawaii use to be. now? we only have a few left. it’s sad to see big businesses running over generations of history….

if this little yakitori stand closes, i will cry. i’ve been going here for over 18 years and love it. the chicken skin, liver, heart, hormones, and other great chicken parts are making my mouth water….

and the liquor shops? so much selection and so good!!! a big bottle of good sake costs about $20 in japan. one little cup of sake at a restaurant in hawaii costs around $15. what’s going on?

i bought this big bottle because i heard it’s good. and it only cost me $15. wanna try[:??????:]

and last, wanted to thank sakaki-san for the email. i’m stoked you found this book. and of course i’ll get kelia will sign it for you in japan. our final schedule is not confirmed yet but we will all be at the party on august 14th. hope to see you there….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide