omg! the waves were so good today. perfect and empty. i couldn’t believe how uncrowded it was this morning. just a few japanese and us. score! i took Aihara-san surfing all day. after his 3rd wave, he paddled back out and told me he just rode the best wave of his life. his smile was BIG! i told him “we’ve only just begun.” he caught so many good waves and really long ones. then we went to eat oxtail soup, shopping, surfing again, shopping, and shave ice.
after we scored in the morning, we scored even more in the afternoon. we paddled back out and it was even more emptier. and the waves got bigger and cleaner. wave after wave we were just laughing. it was like a dream.
after the 2nd session, Aihara-san told me he caught 3 years worth of waves today. this is what surfing is all about. it just gets better and better. thank you Aihara-san for the wonderful day of surfing, eating, and shopping!
did you notice the new coca cola cans in hawaii?
there is a surfer going over the falls!!!! who the heck designed this? they should have put the surfer in the barrel!!!! OMG, big miss coke! but i’ll drink you anyway. haha.
sunburnt, tired, but a happy man. hope you all had a great day.
