good morning. oh, i mean good evening. i scored this morning!! paddled out to bowls expecting it to be packed because of the new swell. i was wrong. it was 3′, not too crowded, consistent, and perfect!!! i was so happy and got so many good waves. i’m glad i stayed back in hawaii for these extra days. tomorrow should be bigger and better. gosh, should i just cancel my japan trip? haha. no way…
it was good to see wade tokoro out there. i told wade, “hey wade, check out vol. 3 cause you have a sick photo in there.” i hope he likes this….
i pulled up one early north shore winter day. the waves were 8-10′ and big! i had my camera because i wanted to take a photo for my blog. as i approach the beach, i see this huge backdoor wave coming in and i was thinking “wow, it’s big and dangerous. then i see a backsider guy take off and pull into the biggest barrel.” it was wade tokoro!!! for those of you who don’t know, wade rips. as he took off on a 2′ wave this morning on mick fanning’s used surfboard, egan inoue and i were watching him do 5 off the lips throwing big spray. i look at egan and say, “can you believe that same guy pulls into 12′ pipeline barrels deeper than anybody?” wade’s the man!!! later, wade and i were talking about his recent japan trip. he loves japan, the food, and the people. someday he wishes to surf a perfect river mouth and if that someday comes, i hope i’m there….
CLICK HERE FOR WADE TOKORO’S GO-NAMINORI OFFICIAL BLOG….
i was over at my sisters house the other day and her neighbor let me attack her mango tree. so attack is what i did. i got a nice big bag of big mangos… so sweet….
there is a little sandbar island that pops up on low tide at this secret beach. i bet you don’t know where it is? come next full moon low tide, i’ll be out there with my cooler, barbecue grill, and beach chairs… and no, it’s not kaneohe bay… guess again…
last, is this gen? i was looking through some old photos and this kid looks like gen. how’s that face? that’s what you call “determination”…..
