i had a wonderful 2 days of surfing with Ikeda-san. a very active man who walked from his hotel in waikiki to diamond head, hiked to the top, then walked around diamond head back to his hotel. a very active man who bodyboarded 5 hours in waikiki. a very active man who walks for hours each day. and a very active man who loves to surf. we talked and i got to know Ikeda-san pretty well. but i had no idea he was a young 62 years old! omg! i was truly inspired by this healthy and active man. thank you Ikeda-san!
Ikeda-san also taught me new things about hawaii. he told me where and what he wanted to eat. it was a small take out shop in kalihi and it was delicious! the crab meat ahi wrapped in nori and deep fried. it was awesome!
i’m watching the weather as 2 typhoons in the past week are threatening japan. us surfers wish for heavy rain, followed by the right wind and swell direction. once all three happen, i’m jumping on an airplane and surfing some of the best waves in the world. last trip was just a little warm up for me. here is Hikaru at her home break in Kamogawa.
and you just never know who you will bump into. i went to bali about 18 years ago with Katsuya Matsumoto. we surfed good waves back then and i’m super stoked to see him still surfing. good to see you in kamogawa. peace bro!
been scoring some good waves here in hawaii. it’s been not too small, not too big, and not to crowded. just perfect! it’s going to be like this for the next whole week! happy summer!
