i had such a good time with these cool surfers from nakamura in shikoku. Sugimoto-san, Nakamura-san, and Iwasaki-san scored today! we surfed perfect concessions rights in the morning. the swell direction and wind was perfect. then had a local style lunch, then surfed again this afternoon at bowls. the waves were head high and perfect with only 3 locals in the water! what an awesome surf day. i’m sure these guys are happy and so am i! thanks boys and see you all in shikoku! and tell everybody at Nobu Surf Shop i said “aloha!”
i’ve taken about a thousand people up this mountain, and all thousand of them were impressed.
and after being up there a thousand times, i’m still impressed by this wonderful view.
i spun by diamond head this evening to check the waves. south/east swell with trade winds. my picks tomorrow will be concessions rights in the morning, then diamond head lighthouse in the afternoon. 2 rounds of perfect waves.
i got a little pissed off today in the water at bowls. i hardly or never get mad, but today, i was a little irritated at some peoples surfing mannerism. i’m too happy and tired to talk about it now, but i will tomorrow. good night!
