good morning. 4 am and i’m looking forward to a nice long day! dawn patrol first, airport second, cel phone off third, champagne fourth, japan fifth, train sixth, cold draft beer seventh, and a good sleep to finish off my 29 hour day. i love days like this!!! see you around….
**i was teaching surfing lessons to the nicest family from tokyo the other day in hawaii. i knew one of the daughters was a fan of kelia so i called up kelia and asked her if she could meet me in the bowls parking lot. i had a flashback when i had the opportunity to get an autograph from tom curren at huntington beach back in the 80’s. i will never forget that day and it made one of my dreams as an aspiring pro surfer come true. until this day, i always have that in the back of my mind and always think about making it happen for others. kelia inspires kids all over the world and i try to do as much as i can to make her fans dreams come true too. anyway, we pull into the parking lot and i didn’t tell the little girl who was going to be there. why? one, because i wanted to surprise her. and two, i was worried if kelia was even going to show up or not. this is hawaii remember???? hawaiian time? hello?
well, kelia not only came to say hello, kelia waxed up her board and took mari-chan for a surf. i was so happy to see the smile of the little girls face. moments like these are priceless….
then kelia takes out mari-chan’s younger sister ai-chan. ai-chan doesn’t know who kelia is. i think she prefers hello kitty instead. i just took this photo anyway so when she gets older, she can tell her friends that kelia moniz took her surfing, not hello kitty….
throughout all my years in the surfing industry, i’ve seen it all. i’ve seen surfing icons totally disrespect their fans by not signing autographs or not posing for photos. that kind of disappoints me. what if tom curren told me “no” back when i was a grom? i probably would have quit surfing. and i probably would have kicked his ass when he came to hawaii. and probably would have never bought a “Op” tshirt. i think that signing autographs and posing for photos is part of the job. if you don’t like it, you shouldn’t become a pro surfer. if i ever see my friends or family turning down a fan of theirs, i would pull them to the side and yell at them for a while. luckily, kelia loves her fans. she’s smart enough to know that if it wasn’t for them, she wouldn’t be kelia moniz… look how happy mari-chan is. what a cutie!!! mari-chan, please treasure that signed poster of kelia because not too many people in this world have one, or will have one. seeing this makes me happy!!! I LOVE MY JOB!!![:?????$B!x(B???:]
anyway, come august 5th starts 10 crazy busy days of promotions!!!
**and to the ueno-san family. your photo CD is in the mail. enjoy!!
**hey, i just got back from bowls and when i checked my computer, i forgot to post this. anyway, the waves were going off!! 4′ and the biggest swell of the summer so far. i paddled out at pitch dark, a set came my way, i took off and as i was doing down the line, i could see the moon and lights of waikiki shining sparkling all over the face of the wave as i did 3 backside snaps. it felt like i was in a dark club with the disco lights going crazy. but only better!!! after that wave, it was enough. i caught one more and came in. it’s 6 am and while the rest of hawaii sleeps, i’m up and ready for my long journey. have a great summer!!!
