DEATH PENALTY

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good morning. all i can say is “atsui.” that means hot. how do you say “hotter than hot?” i’m baking here in japan and my car air conditioner is broken. imagine driving around in an oven. it’s been only a day and a half and i lost 5 lbs due to sweat…. yuck….

mango’s might be over a hundred dollars for one but you can get 5 avocado’s for $1.75. now that’s a deal…

when i first got my new camera, i took it to the maldives and was shooting everything. i was using film at the time so every photo costed me money. i still don’t know why i took this one? a locked door? maybe i was wondering who was in there? still don’t know…

in some parts of america, the DEATH PEALTY lives on. you do something really bad, you die. i like that law because it makes you think before you do things. in hawaii, we don’t have the death penalty and that’s one reason why people do stupid things. people here get away with murder..

and last, ever know what it looks like to get dropped in on? all you can see is sprays in your face and somebody’s ass. here is kazuma’s ass. at keramas…..

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide