Heavy Class

285

good morning. jet lag to it’s finest. got up at 3am and couldn’t go back to sleep. raining hard outside, and just killing time as i leave for the airport soon. 8 hour flight from honolulu to osaka, then another 8 hour flight to bali. 2 days ago, i was riding the harley in the pouring rain kind of bummed i couldn’t get a flight. i was so focused on central america. i made a few calls, and now i’m going to the other side of the world. this trip was intended to be a surf/relax kind of trip, but as soon as i got to Kimura-san’s house, Atsuko-san gave me 2 bottles of Jack Daniels to take to bali. then after having a wonderful dinner last night with Naohiro and the wakayama boys, i realized that this trip will no longer be a relax trip, it’s going to be a crazy trip. i have so many friends in bali and the bintang beers go down way to easy. so getting up this morning, i told myself “oh my gosh, this trip is going to be crazy!” then i thought how i’m very fortunate to have friends all over the world. so i just told myself “let the party begin!”
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after a perfect flight, i was the first to get out of the airplane. i walked down the hall, and the door was closed, and locked. OMG! this is the 2nd time this year it’s happened.
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the hallway started getting crowded of passengers that were getting off the airplane. 15 minutes later, the staff came to open the door.
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then guess what? the escalator wasn’t working. then an elder japanese man yelled out “what, noboby works on sundays anymore?” everybody started laughing and i was happy to see the good sense of humor in a situation where a lot of people were getting angry.
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then i walk out, the Yamari van is waiting. this time i was alone. i jumped in, drove out of the airport, and somehow made the 1 hour drive to Yamari. i have to drive it back soon alone again and i’m sure learning a lot about how not to drive on the opposite side of the road.
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Ikora has the best okonomiyaki in the world! if we had one of these in hawaii, there would be a line all night long. after a long flight, the beers were tasting good. check out these cool suntory glasses. i was drinking heavy class but as soon as i got in the car after dinner, i fell asleep. it was only 10pm here but 3am for me in hawaii time. i usually sleep at 9:30pm so that was way too late for me.
well, better get going because the party in bali is waiting!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide