Golden Morning in Bali

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relax in bali? no way. not with Kinsan waking up super early and being one of the first to get to the beach. we stopped by at a local morning market to pick up breakfast on the way to the beach yesterday.
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40 cent breakfast. i ate two in the morning.
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Keramas never use to be a surf point when i first came to bali 21 years ago. now it is, and it will always be a world class wave. it’s so weird seeing this building on a beach that had nothing before. surfing is booming in the world so you better keep your secret spot a secret.
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japanese spectator.
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golden suntanning in front of barreling waves. this is paradise!
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this was my lunch. suckling pig for $2/each. i ate two of these for lunch. after eating 4 servings yesterday, i felt like a pig myself.
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after i got out of the water, i grabbed my camera and got the shot! check this out!!! freaking amazing sunrise in bali, indonesia!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide