i still can’t believe i’m here in bali. seen some friends here and they told me “why didn’t you tell me you’re coming?” well, i didn’t plan to come here so i told them, i actually planned to go to central america. then they look at me like i’m either lying, or crazy. no, i’m not lying, but i might be crazy. coming to bali almost every year since 1993 has made me grow up. i see the fast pace life, i see the changes, and i see the culture. no, i can’t adjust to a lifestyle like this, but to hang here for a few days is like a dream. bali bagus! Aria took this photo the other day at a secret spot down the road as i was about to paddle out early sunrise time for a great barrel session.
i wanted to surf everyday. i’m not trying to have marathon sessions, i just want to jump in, catch a few barrels, and enjoy the rest of the day. i’m doing exactly that! and when i get back to hawaii in 2 days, there will be a south swell waiting for me. unbelievable luck! by the way, here i’m riding my 6’0 TSSC round pin shaped by Matchi. this board works good and i love it!
i’m a photographer, so when i see a perfect situation of capturing a good photo, i take it. i saw this setup yesterday and i was thinking “Roxy” all the way. i snapped the shot and this is a Roxy ad for sure. makes you just want to jump in the photo right? a perfect screensaver from the beautiful island of bali!
i leave tonight and i’m looking forward to coming back. yeah, it’s super crowded and lots of traffic, but i’m still experiencing things i like to experience. everyday passes and i keep on telling myself “life is short, so enjoy every minute of it.” i’m enjoying every single second!
