Hard Core Traveler?

263

salamat malan! omg again! we went looking for waves this morning. i wanted to surf any place, except Keramas. why? because i surfed there already 3x and i knew it was going to be crowded after the contest. well, luckily, i was wrong! we pulled up to just check it and the waves were going off! solid 6′ barrels. so i grab my board, run down the beach, and count how many surfers were in the water. only 3!!!! omg! 3 surfers at perfect 4-6′ barreling Keramas? are you kidding me? am i dreaming? no i’m not and no i’m not. barrel after barrel, i was in heaven. these are the moments i live my life for. it’s moments like this that makes my life exciting, makes me happy, and makes my life complete. i couldn’t have been in a better place in the whole wide world. Keramas was the best place this morning for me, and i was there! yeah! what a wonderful day!
photo 4
this is our pool at our hotel. i didn’t even have a chance to get my feet wet. been too busy here in bali.
photo 3
took my 2 tshirts to get it washed. it only cost 30 cents or 30 yen. so cheap!
photo 2 copy
every seen long papayas like this before? crazy!
photo 1 copy
it’s so hot here so an afternoon nap in a cool place is a must. Kimura-san and i found to wood sofas and took a great 20 minute nap in the shade.
photo 5
i love coconuts, especially with flowers coming out of them. haha.
well, i’m leaving tonight back to japan, then transiting and going back to hawaii tomorrow night. it takes 28 hours to get home from here. i was talking to a guy in the water this morning and when he found out i’m only here for 4 days, he told me “Congratulations! You are hard core!” haha.
when i get back to hawaii, i’m ready to work hard. and when i work hard, great things happen. then i’ll be looking forward to my next trip! enjoy your life because you only have one!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide