A world of friends

277

photo
day 4 bali rained so hard in the middle of the night. the thunder was so loud that it kept on waking me up even though i had earplugs on. it was like huge bombs dropping from the sky. boom after boom. then next morning, dirty water. and if you know or see what happens in the mountains in bali, you don’t want to go in the brown water. you have a great chance of getting very sick. that’s why we didn’t surf here, and ended up at empty and epic Keramas on the last day. i always believe that things happen for a reason. and there was a reason we couldn’t surf here and ended up at Keramas. thank you mother nature.
IMG_9467 copy 2
Hideyoshi Tanaka is a JPSA Grand Champion. i had a fun time in bali hanging out with him. such a cool, calm, and kind guy with a pure heart. not too many of these guys remain in this world. i hope he stays that way. here he is on an early morning wave at Keramas.
photo 1 copy
Kimura-san, Kin-san, and next is Leon-san. Leon-san is a bali legend surfer. he’s one of the first to surf in bali and still rips. super nice man and i’m always happy to see him. i’ve known him ever since the first time i went to bali 21 years ago. we had an awesome dinner. shrimp, crab, fish, and a few bintangs.
photo 2 copy
if you want my advise about staying in bali, don’t stay in kuta! the traffic was just too crazy. all day and all night. you won’t even move, and you will get frustrated. it is out of control and i never want to stay in kuta again. be smarter and stay in sanur.
photo copy
i get back to kansai, we jump in the car, and head back to Yamari. after a wonderful breakfast, i get a wonderful surprise! We Are One Kiku-chan from sendai was in the neighborhood. it’s always great to see her smile! what a wonderful world we live in.
well, gotta get ready for another over night long flight. i’m half way home and can’t wait to jump into the blue ocean in hawaii once i get back. i’ll probably have some jet lag but i don’t mind waking up at 3am as i will just lay in bed and think about the great week i just had. have a great evening and see you in hawaii!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide