good evening. gosh, another fun day in the sun here in hawaii. went surfing with some japan super kids today…
this is reika noro (12), kairi noro (8), and kota iida (9). all from osaka and kobe. all of them on their way to a career in professional surfing. young start… ganbatte ne….
we pulled up to backdoor/pipe at 9:30am and it started to look good. had to wait for the good one but when it came, it came…. 3-5′ and thick….
met up with the moniz kids and all went surfing. this is on the wall where you park your car at v-land. a good view to check the waves….
this photo is classic. 3 groms making their way to v-land. when these guys get older, they are going to look back at this photo and laugh. that’s kairi, seth, and kota. by the way, v-land was 3-5′ and going off!!! so it’s like 10′ for the kids….
starting from the left is kota. kota got caught in the inside bowl at v-land and a big thick set broke right in front of him. he got pounded for 5 waves straight. it looked like he was over it and going in but i called him back out. when he paddled back out, i asked him if he was scared. he didn’t answer so that meant “yes.” i told him that he’s still alive so the worst part is over. he smiled at me for the first time today, paddled back out, and charged… next is reika. reika paddled out to v-land and was sitting on the shoulder. a big set was coming to her and i was yelling “go!!” she looked hesitant but here comes tony moniz on the side. tony went behind her and pushed her into a solid overhead thick sucking wave. she took off, made the drop, and went for an off the lip. she didn’t make the wave but i’m sure that was the biggest and most crazy wave she caught in her life. i asked her after how long she’s been surfing. she said for a half a year. what? a half a year? maybe that’s the first time a 12 year old surfer girl that only has been surfing for 6 months paddled out to v-land and caught a wave that big. pretty nuts… and last is kairi. kairi has so much energy and is always smiling. the whole time we were out at v-land, he was saying that he wanted to get barrelled. funny kid…. anyway, we surfed big v-land in the morning so our afternoon session at kewalo’s was like a playground for them. these 3 kids are on the road to becoming professional surfers and i’m pretty sure they can do it. i’m behind you all the way. surf your dream….
and last, check out the sunset overlooking rocky point. can’t wait till tomorrow. i love hawaii….
