when i was young, i was a terrible local surfer. i use to fight, i use to drop in, i use to yell, i use to pull leashes, and i even use to even pull hair. i hated the world and thought that hawaii is number 1. all that changed by traveling and waking up to reality. nobody taught me, i taught myself. how? by getting dropped in on, by getting yelled at, and by getting into fights. i guess i learned the hard way but i want isaiah to learn the easy way. i keep on stressing to him and the boys that hawaii is hawaii. the rest of the world is the rest of the world. respect everybody at their local spots. if you respect people, they will respect you. put your head up and say hello, especially in japan. he’s been doing that and it’s been working.
takobo-san is a local at one of the heaviest localized spots in the world. i’ve known him ever since i surfed out there 18 years ago. i have to say that some of the boys gave me a hard time out there in the beginning. but takobo-san was always really kind to me. i never forget things like that. i’m so stoked that they now share their waves with my nephew and i. thanks boys!!!
driving through japan, i see the coolest things. this i thought was cool so i pulled over and took this photo. an elderly man working hard in the rice fields…
i just love kids enjoying the ocean. the smiles on their faces are just priceless…. hey kid, can i have that wakame for my miso shop?
