i surfed bowls yesterday and was getting frustrated. frustrated in people with no manners, people with no respect, people that don’t share, and people just trying to catch every single wave that breaks. after 1 hour of seeing all that, i put myself into a place i’ve never been in a long time. a bad place. i started taking revenge. if somebody dropped in on me, i dropped in on him twice. if somebody started taking waves from my friends, i started taking waves from them. and if somebody was catching every wave that broke, i would drop right in. i got so pissed at one time that the very same guy that dropped in on me a few waves before stared at me after i dropped in on him. he took off, i dropped in, he wiped out badly, i rode the wave all the way to the end, then he started paddling his fastest straight to me. usually i look away but yesterday was different. after i seen him trying to intimidate me, i looked him straight in the eye with fire and was ready to fight. yeah, i didn’t care who he was, i didn’t care if he could fight, i just cared about the whole principal. after i stared him down, he looked away and paddled in. i told myself that if he paddled close to me, yelled at me, or tried to intimidate me, i would fight right there. nothing was stopping me.
10 minutes later, i stopped and seen the old Kirby in me. the wild, don’t give a shit Kirby. back then, i didn’t think before i acted. i just threw punches and figured out what happened after. so i stopped, took 3 deep breaths, caught a wave, and paddled in. i couldn’t believe that i got caught up in all that bullshit that goes with surfing and localism out there. yesterday was the closest time in about 5 years i almost lost my mind. but i’m glad i didn’t.
so this morning, i decided to go back to my roots and surf this super secret spot near diamond head. i paddled out, nobody in the ocean, caught 8 waves in 40 minutes, and paddled back in feeling good about surfing again. then i did the same thing in the evening and surfed into dark. it was a day of healing! a day i really needed.
