ohayo gozaimasu means good morning. see you later means mata ne…… so mata ne…..
it was in 1994 when a nervous foreign aspiring pro surfer came to this foreign land to live his dream. he pulled up to this beautiful white sandy beach by himself after driving 3 hours and getting lost on the way. it was the JPSA pro trials, a huge step on coming a professional surfer in japan. he drew his heat, he advanced. he drew another heat, he advanced. it was the semifinals and all he had to do was score a 6.75, he got a 6.8. after all the confusion in the foreign translation, he found out at exactly 4:40 pm that he was officially a Japanese Professional Surfer!!! on the ride home, he stopped by 7/11, bought a cold asahi super dry, and drove back home 3 hours later a different person then he was earlier that morning. that guy was me….
going back to shirahama beach beach yesterday made me realize something really important. it made me realize that dreams do come true. that was 16 years ago and i’m still living in this dream today. wanted to thank all the people i’ve met along the way and wanted to thank all my sponsors for supporting me. i’m a pretty happy guy!!!
kelia was surfing in chiba last week while i was on the beach. i seen this little girl trying to approach kelia when she came in and got shy and turned around and ran back to her parents. kelia didn’t see what happened and started to walk the other way. the little girl saw her chance slipping away. there was no way i was going to let that happen. i whistled for kelia, called her over and pointed out her little fan. kelia loves little girls and i know that she wants to meet each and every one. it felt good leaving the beach that day….
tonight is the night! i can’t wait! lot’s of people, fun, and prizes. need not say more….
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