wow, the waves were super fun today! surfed 2x with the morning super crowded. i must have counted 60 people out at rock piles! then i went back there this afternoon and there were only 6 people out. but it was fun both in the morning and afternoon as long as you caught waves. and waves we caught all day!
Yumi-san tried to take my guide the past 2 years but i was off island so it didn’t happen. this year, the timing was great and we finally got to surf together. a super energetic girl with a lot of power. she caught so many good waves and rode them for so long. i think we have another reborn surfer! yeah!
then Yumi-san wanted to see some nature so i took her up my favorite mountain. and also the best swing in the world! had so much fun!
there are a few secret places i only take a few if we have the time. it takes a while to get there, but once you do, you will see the island of oahu as you’ve never seen it before. a totally 360 degreee view of green and blue.
surf the clean blue water, then breathe the fresh mountain air. what more could you ask for in an island. i tell everybody that this is paradise! and if you think not, you must not know where to go. everyday and every minute of hawaii amazes me. thank you to all my friends for a wonderful day!
tomorrow have a photo shoot in another part of nature. can’t wait so better get to sleep!
