good morning. we’re moving around and things are getting exciting. what and where is next? stay tuned….
when i first came to japan, i had it hard. i remember catching a taxi from haneda to fujisawa with all my luggage and boards in the car. i think it cost $150 but that was just the start. struggling to become a pro surfer was tough. lugging 5 boards in a huge coffin surf bag, wetsuits, clothes and other things in japan isn’t as easy as you think. the airplane ride was the easy part. catching the trains in rush hour trying to squeeze your board bag in was tough. i did that for years and to tell you the truth, i don’t know how i survived it. surfers that come to japan these days have it made. getting picked up and dropped like vip members? that’s not fair. haha… because of the peak holiday season, i dropped off tammy, isaiah, and kelia at chigasaki train station so they can make their flight to the airport. they had to transfer once in the 2 hour journey. for them, i was easy because i was there to put them in the right direction. back in the days, i use to catch the train in the wrong way because of translation errors. yeah, no english anywhere. now, the new trains have english so it’s pretty easy. so the next time they come to japan, the can jump on a train and meet me where ever i am. it will save me the 3 hour drive to the airport….
the first time i surfed this spot, i got dropped in on every single wave. it’s called “paying your dues.” now, i’m friends with the locals so i get to get barreled! this is still by far my favorite river mouth in japan. 10′ hawaiian scale barrels? it’s been a long time and when that day comes again, i’ll be there….
when i shoot, i shoot anybody. why? because i want to stoke people out. this girl might never ever see this photo of herself bodyboarding shirahama last week. or maybe she will? i hope that somehow this gets to her….
when i seen this photo, it reminded me of the time i went fishing with my friend derek between molokai and oahu. it was peak whale season so whales were jumping and popping up everywhere. imagine cruzing at 5 knots on dead flat water in the middle of the ocean waiting for a fish to bite the line. it’s dead quiet and all you can hear is the sound of the motor and the wind in your hair, then all of a sudden, a huge ass whale jumps on the side of your boat? [:??????:]
