good morning. there are only a handful of surf sessions i can remember. the day at shotgun in chiba is one of them. it was one of those days when i thought to myself “i can die today.” the waves weren’t only big, they were THICK!!! it was like the whole bay dumping on your head… scary? yes. dangerous? yes….
i take off and two things are on my mind. one, go straight and die. or two, try to pull in the barrel and hope for the best. see that white water coming in from over the wave? i knew it was coming for me in a matter of time….
i pull in and did the right thing. do you notice how thick that wave is? if i went straight, the impact of the wave could have ripped my body into pieces….
faces of death? this is what you call “wave in a wave in a wave” or “three waves in one.” i was more on the right side of this photo when this freak set came in. or better known as “the impact zone.” you can’t see me because i was under water fighting for my life. my board broke, my leash broke, and my heart almost broke. i’ll never forget the prayers i was saying under water. i thought it was the end…..
all these photo of shotgun were in surf1st magazine and photos taken by kinsan. jun jo is on the cover on the biggest wave ever ridden in japan. same swell, same day, and same time. jun and i were emailing back and forth from the start of this typhoon. we were both in hawaii and took flights to 2 different places to surf that typhoon. we knew it was going to be big, but i don’t think neither of us knew it was going to be that big. people call it the 100 year swell. i call it, the 1000 year swell. i don’t think it will happen again but if it does, i’m sure jun and i will be emailing each other again…. wow, i’m getting excited!!! where are the typhoons????
