after a long flight home, i was so tired and wanted to sleep all day. but after seeing the beautiful blue sky driving home, i grabbed my surfboard and went to the beach. why not?
nobody was around today? where is everybody? the waves were chest high and perfect!!! it felt great getting back on a surfboard and not having to hold my breath 65 times a day.
then i came home and watched the Tahara Pro online. was super stoked to see Shun and Kaori making it all the way to the semi-finals. and super stoked to see Mar and Kylen in the finals. all great surfers!
but the cinderella story has to be Kylen. this kid goes to college, this kid has 2 jobs, and this kid loves to surf and dive. and most importantly, this kid has the upmost respect for everybody. so watching him finish 2nd overall was unreal!
and wow, look at this tropical storm that’s coming next monday to hawaii. expect huge surf on the east side and expect me to be surfing it.
glad to be back home. ate rice, miso soup, and yama imo for dinner. drank a kombucha, worked out, and am going to sleep pretty dam good. i have the next couple of days off so will be catching up on emails, planning my next trip to molokai, and getting back to my crazy busy life. good night.
