woke up this morning wondering where to go. rain, wind, and weird east swell forecasted? thank goodness, the forecast was totally wrong.
first, i needed power so i ate my japanese power breakfast. gosh, now i know i really love japanese food. i don’t want to eat mexican food for a long time. haha.
so i drive by diamond head to get a good idea on the waves. where was the 10′ east swell? instead, there was a south/west swell coming in from the opposite direction of the tropical storm. jumped back in my car because i knew bowls would be good.
Takashi-san on the left is a videographer for japanese tv. i worked with him a few times and he’s a very nice guy. then on the right is a very important friend. Keizo-san was probably the first japanese guy i ever met. he’s the guy that gave me good advise on that crazy day on niijima island back in 1990. instead of getting into a fight in a foreign country, he cooled me down and guided me on a good path to tokyo. it was that trip that made me want to live in japan. it’s good to see you again Keizo-san!
we paddled out and the waves were super glassy, perfect, and head high. when we got to the lineup, there were only 3 guys out! we surfed 2 hours at totally empty bowls. i think everybody was at longs or costco buying water and batteries. haha. anyway, the waves stayed off shore and perfect all day long. tomorrow will be different so stay tuned.
my friends been looking for shells recently. i had a chance to go today but surfed instead. next chance, i’m going!
look at my friend Brent’s collection!!! OMG!!! all i want is one! or maybe 2? if i find some shells next time, i will give one to you! wish me luck!
