Drive Thru Japan: Shikoku

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good evening. just wanted to thank everybody for the kind emails and comments. i read some and almost teared… doomo arigato gozaimasu.
well, have lots to talk about. first, took 7 hours but we finally got to shikoku last night. we got here in time to surf our first river mouth in the evening. it was just 2 people out, kimura-san and i. it felt good to get back into the ocean surfing in the cool river water. ate dinner. went to sleep early. got up at 4 am and surfed another river mouth. kind of crowded but really fun. then we surfed another river mouth down the street, that was even funner and less crowded. then we jumped into the car and drove back to the first river mouth. only 1 guy out? eeh? score!!! it was 10 am and we surfed 3 rounds and kinsan got some great photos. now i’m sitting in an empty shopping mall using their internet. my phone can’t do blogs anymore??? why?? don’t know. i got some great photos in there so hopefully i can get it working.

this photo seems like years ago. i’m actually missing my sister, niece, and nephew. that’s weird because i never missed them before….
i’m finally got a night of good sleep. no alcohol and solid 6 hours of deep sleep. thank goodness for my new sleeping method that’s been working well for me. it’s from yoga and helps clear my mind and soul….

this is a photo from the north shore swim i did last month. can somebody send me the upcoming events schedule? i don’t want to miss it…

of our last 5 day drive thru tour, we had 3 boat trips, ate sazae, abalone, tako, fish, and oysters that were as fresh as can be. i wish i could eat like that everyday….
anyway, the internet is slow and sitting in this chair is the last place i want to be. i’m out of here…

oh, check out this photo kinsan took of kimura-san this morning. from the brown water river in osaka to the clean water of shikoku. surfing is surfing and if you can live the life we do, you’ll be smiling and laughing like how we do all day long everyday… i want to thank you all again for checking out go-naminori.com. we all appreciate it….. i’ll get back to your emails as soon as i get back to where ever i’m going. understand? i don’t…. have a great evening…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide