i was watching the waves and wind all day long. i knew the tradewinds were coming back strong, and i knew the east swell was solid! i drove by diamond head 4x today and it happened at 2pm. the waves turned on like magic! only 4 surfers out! i parked my car, ran down the hill, and paddled out as fast as i could.
lighthouse was on fire! 5′ sets, 10′ faces. one big set broke on my head, i tried to duck dive it because i didn’t want to throw my board and break it. it blew the board out of my hand, picked me up and slammed me into the reef. it’s deep outside but i still got pinned to the reef. i was underwater for a while thinking this was nuts! my first time ever i got pinned to the reef at lighthouse. i was just waiting down there for a while before i finally came up. then looked to the side and seen a guy with his broken board. glad it wasn’t mine! but hey, i scored today. big carves on big open faces at lighthouse. might go back out there tomorrow as a new south/west swell supposed to fill in. yeah!
got a safety check today for the truck. took 20 minutes and cost $15. safety checks in japan cost $2,000. lucky i live in hawaii.
on the last mexico trip, we got 2nd place and i won a new speargun and other prizes. so lucky! this speargun will catch me many dinners to come.
and the goodie bag from Red Sea Ocean Adventures. from hawaii, to mexico, to hawaii again. my snacks for the week.
check out this monster tako my friend Brent caught out at ala moana. huge!
well, more waves on the way. i start work on july 31 and will be super busy until august 25th. tomorrow is my last day off. my jetlag is fixed, i gained back my weight, and i’m ready for anything! i’m looking forward to sleeping. good night!
