wake up early, pick up Hide-san, go to rockpiles, surf good waves, paddle to bowls, surf better waves. 3 hour session and we’re hungry! we will surf again in the afternoon so we need protein!
i take Hide-san to my secret prime rib restaurant. he eats all! OMG! we jump back in the car and head back to the beach for round 2.
the best prime rib lunch on the island. no tourists and no inflation. just local style lunch deep in kalihi.
i stop by kewalo’s. seen the boys there. Gen, Kylen, and coach Rainos. I congratulate Kylen on his 2nd place finish at the Tahara Pro last week in japan. he says “thanks, but i can’t wait to go diving!” Gen’s been shaping some sweet boards. and coach Rainos glad to back home.
we talk story and watch the waves. it was perfect kewalo’s! Josh, Seth, Cole, Gen, Kylen, were out there doing the biggest airs. i asked Hide-san if he wanted to go surf out there. he said “no way!” i told him that it would be a great experience for him to surf with all that talent in the water. and no tourists out there. he said “ok, let’s go!” we paddle out, watch the boys ripping. then a freak set comes our way. i yell to Hide-san “PADDLE! PADDLE! PADDLE!” he paddles into a perfect wave and surfs it all the way in. he paddles back out with a big smile on his face and said, “that was the best wave i caught in my life!!!” we catch a few more, and go in completely satisfied. as much as he was happy to surf with my nephews, so was i. i’m glad to see the boys back home.
then we take a photo with the kewalo’s boys. world champions! that is Hide-san on the right. right after i took this photo, he told me “I’m the happiest Japanese on the island today!” i was glad to hear that.
want to say something about my nephews Josh and Seth Moniz. as much as i’m proud of them in the water, i’m proud of them out of the water. they are just so respectful to everyone. Hide-san and i were sitting pretty far away in the channel watching and after each of them caught a wave, the would paddle over to us and shake our hands. it was “hi uncle” to me, and “nice to meet you” to Hide-san. that makes me so happy and proud to see these boys growing up respecting everyone.
hey Hide-san, tomorrow we will surf again so be ready! what happens tomorrow i don’t know. we just go with the flow and good things will come our way. thank you for another day of fun and laughter!
