good afternoon, well, the pacific ocean is starting to get angry. i see a lot of activity out there and i think september will be the month to remember. i’m glad i’ll be here and like i said before, this season isn’t over till i get barreled out of my mind. i’m excited and i’m ready to go. i better get ready for some long drives and sleepless nights. stay tuned…
this was 2 days ago at a pretty heavy localized secret river mouth in shikoku. the first time i surfed there was 17 years ago when tokura-san, ishino-san, and i took a look at a river mouth that not too many people knew about. i remember pulling up in total disbelief. the waves were going off and nobody was out. eeh? i grabbed my 6’4, paddled out, and got barrel after barrel. ishino-san was filming it and i have the footage right here on my computer. gosh, it was a great memory. since then, i haven’t surfed it like that but i’m not giving up hope. i know that there will be another perfect day out there and i also know that i won’t be surfing it by myself. those days are gone….
hey, look what’s coming next week! yes, a typhoon swell! the good news is that i know that i’m waiting in the best possible place in japan. and i ain’t moving….
being a great photographer is being able to make a surfer look better than he really is. when i first saw this photo, i didn’t know who it was. i’m serious. thanks kinsan for making me look good. did you know that’s the first snap i did since march? in the mentawai’s, all i did was pull into barrels, then ever since, the waves in japan and hawaii haven’t been too good. so going down the line full speed and being able to carve into a perfect open face felt pretty dam good. and the added weight i gained in japan helps a lot in the spray. haha….
