gosh, i haven’t seen the waves so small in my lifetime on the south shore. it’s almost flat! but there are a few knee high waves to be found on some shallow reefs with very very long rides. we found a lot of those this morning and afternoon. 2 super happy surf sessions.
this family from osaka is super amazing! lots of energy both in and out of the water. Uetani-san, Makiko-san, Ryoga-kun, and Ayaka-chan all did a great job surfing! thank you and see you all again soon!
we ate hawaiian style saimin at one of my favorite places downtown. it’s called Tanaka Saimin located on nimitz. this Tanaka special cost $10 and is very good. wonton mein, barbecue beef, shrimp tempura, and salad. i was pretty dam full after this but went straight to surf again. then after that session, i was so hungry again. haha.
i was watching the padang padang contest in bali the other night. i couldn’t believe how many people were on the beach! i use to go there 20 years ago and there would only be one or two people on the whole beach. and they were naked! we’d go surfing epic 6-8′ waves with a few guys out, come in, pass by the naked women taking a tan on the beach, eat a noodle soup, drink a bintang, and watch the sunset. those were the good old days. padang padang will never be the same.
more small waves on the way. wanted to take this time to say hello to all of you checking out my blog. wanted to say hello to all of you i met in the water. and want to say hello to all my friends. thank you, thank you, and thank you! surf your dream!
