well it’s time to clean up my desktop. i have thousands of photos in hundreds of folders. i have no place to keep them so i just upload it on my blog and delete it. then it’s saved online forever. here are just a few of the thousands to come.
my bali trip seemed like years ago. from watching the contest to early morning barrel sessions, i had a great time. i was sitting on the side watching the high tide and waves rising. i knew it was a matter of time a big wave would wash all the spectators away. there were people, bags, cameras, beach chairs, and even kids getting swept up the beach. if you aren’t paying attention to the ocean, the ocean will get you.
i tell everybody that timing is everything in surfing. if you paddle for a wave too late, you will miss it. if you paddle for a wave too soon, you will wipe out. and if you paddle perfectly, you will get the ride of your life! it’s that easy!
Watanabe-san is a really cool guy living a dream life. had a great time surfing and eating mexican with him. lots to talk about.
Toda-san always smiling. when i first met him a long time ago, he use to scare me. but after knowing him all these years, he’s the softest, kindest, and has the biggest heart in the world.
balance is everything. if you have good balance, you can surf. if you don’t have good balance, you should surf. balance comes with time and once you master it, your life will be a lot better!
i was in shikoku back in april. i just woke up and looked out my window. i seen a wave break and a guy take off so i grabbed my camera. i snapped this photo and come to find out, it was Kesuke Ono! OMG! i didn’t know Kesuke could surf this good! he runs the TSSC shop in uchizuma and now makes uchizuma his local spot. good surfing Kesuke!
