good morning. well, i have good news. i’m surfed out. after a long month of getting teased my average waves, i finally got my fair share this past typhoon. i surfed 3 rounds and caught probably a 100 waves. barrels, off the lips, cutbacks, and floaters. the waves were that perfect. on one afternoon session, it was just kimura-san, matchi, one local, and myself trading wave after wave on a left that wouldn’t stop coming. by far, one of my best sessions in a long time. i’m super happy and as i sit in the a/c room typing this, i have one of the biggest smiles one can ever have. it’s a smile of “satisfaction.” ahhhhh…. life is good….
just got an email from my friend mark from hawaii. he told me that enson inoue is here in shikoku making his 88 temple pilgrimage. if you don’t know who enson inoue is, he’s a bad ass mixed martial arts master that can kill you in one move. he’s the older brother of mma champion and world jujitsu champion egan inoue. and if you don’t know what it takes to do a pilgrimage around shikoku, let me tell you. i see these guys walking around all day and night. in fact, i see one passing outside my window walking in his white clothes and walking stick. i was always interested in these guys passion and even thought of one day trying to do it. i think it takes months or so but you can’t experience more culture than that for sure.
every time i come to shikoku, i stop and take a photo. why? because i’m interested. matchi told me it takes months and months and this being the hottest summer in 113 years, they are having it rough. just walking out from the water to the car is challenging. it’s hotter than hot. as i was driving back from kochi yesterday, i was looking for enson. i couldn’t find him but if somehow he gets word that i’m here, i hope he contacts me because he can crash right here in uchizuma anytime. or if he needs anything, i’m right here. wait, another guy just walked by my window. oh, he is too small to be enson.
**CLICK HERE TO FOLLOW ENSON INOUE’S PILGRIMAGE THROUGHOUT THIS BEAUTIFUL ISLAND OF SHIKOKU….
