today was another beautiful day here in hawaii. super warm weather, super cool trade winds, and really nice waves! i couldn’t ask for any more.
i checked diamond head this morning and the waves were a little windier than yesterday. a little bigger wind swell so we decided to surf Kaisers Bowl! that was the best decision because the waves were shoulder high, only 3 surfers out, super hollow, straight off shore, and i got 3 perfect barrels! score!
Yoshida-san is a super good surfer, and a super energetic guy. we surfed 4 hours straight! caught so many good waves today and was completely sunburned when we got it. we paddled from Kaisers to Rockpiles and there were 2 korean tourists on stand up paddle boards in the middle of the ocean. they got blown out to sea by the strong off shore winds and couldn’t make it back in. Yoshida-san helped them at first, then i paddled there to help after. i seen the frightened face of the poor girl as she looked like she was going to cry. she had a life jacket on, and looked like a ghost just scared her! i tell her relax, keep calm, and everything is going to be ok. then i told the guy she was with to look straight to the beach and paddle in. i towed in the girl on her 12′ stand up paddle board. i was on my 5’10 and when i got them to the beach, i was super tired. then i paddled back out, caught a wave, and felt good again. it’s amazing how much energy i can get from riding a wave. as for the korean couple, i told them to walk back to waikiki and never to stand up paddle again without an instructor. it could have been worst as there are no lifeguards where we found them today.
remember the Kony 2012 campaign? well, it’s 2013 and there is still no Kony. what happened to the hundreds of millions of dollars the whole world donated to that organization?
last, good to hear from my mexican dive friend David. he sent me an email starting off by saying “Hahahahah hey Kirby!!
How’s everything going?? I hope you are practicing, I decided to stop fishing for this past two weeks soni could give you some handicap!!”
here is David and fellow mexican team mate Parma racing us out on the first day of competition. i sent a reply telling him “you are lucky i threw my 40lbs. pargo off the boat as we were coming in because we didn’t want to beat you in your own country.” haha. i love this guy!
