get this story. last week sunday, we were surfing down at a river mouth in kochi. kimura-san hit the bottom and lost a fin. he came out pretty bummed because he just got the scarfini fins from matchi and it was working really good. later that day, kimura-san goes back to wakayama, i go back to tokushima.
fast forward 3 days. new typhoon. kimura-san goes back to kochi, i drive with matchi early that morning and we meet up. we all surf a totally different river mouth on a totally different swell. i walk out of the water after surfing 2 hours, i bend down to take off my leash and see something in the corner of my eye. a fin? what? i pick it up, look at it, and remembered “shit, this is the fin kimura-san lost down at the other river mouth.” i seriously thought somebody was playing a joke on me. i actually looked around to see if somebody was taking video of my reaction. it was too freaky. the fin probably washed up on the beach on the same wave i caught in. no way, it can’t be….
it was. i walk to the car and told kimura-san i found something. i pulled out the fin and his eyes popped out in disbelief. what a trip!! am i lucky? i found a bag full of oysters in the ocean the day before, and now i found his fin from 3 days ago? i was in a daze thinking what were the odds of that happening.
so today, i will book my ticket to las vegas and roll with my luck. don’t be surprised if i come back with 100 million dollars….
**anyway, have a great evening and see you at the barrels contest and barbecue tomorrow at ikumi! i wonder what i will find down there….
