good morning. big day today!! it’s the barrels family users contest and bbq party! see you all over at ikumi beach in shikoku!!! barrels saiko!!!!
after going for days without surfing, and driving for hours that seemed like days, we pull up to kaifu right before dark. there is 1 guy out and it’s getting dark. he paddles in. we jump in and i feel like a new man. i watch the sunset, i paddle in, and i can’t explain how happy i was. the cool river water soothed my mind….
we’re in the club house in koichi, shikoku. it was a time for an afternoon nap so i coached kimura-san into some yoga. i told him to lay on his back, make sure every part of his body is connected with the earth, put his hands out, take deep breaths through his third eye, and clear everything from his mind. this is called savasana. then i get up and take this photo. CLICK!! kimura-san opens his eyes to see what that sound came from and all he could see was me standing over him laughing my ass off holding my camera…. hahahha…. namaste[:?????$B!x(B???:]
being a web designer or running such a huge website is a hard job. your job is never ending and you never seem to be able to catch up on things. you can have fun in the day, but when night falls and everybody else is sleeping like babies, it’s time to work. if i could go back 20 years when there were no computers and cell phones, i would in a heartbeat. poor naoka was working in the car, in the family restaurants, and in the room late nights…
and last, people think i’m lucky. no i’m not. this guy who ejected from this crashing jet is lucky….
