i went down to sell my friends porsche 911 yesterday morning. ok, it’s 9:30am on a beautiful sunny friday morning. i pull out the porsche from the garage because i had to take it for the buyer to see.
the meeting place is in downtown but there is no way i’m going straight there because this could be my last ride. so i take some side roads, i jump on the freeway, and i drive the porsche like a speed racer in the indy 500. i had to have my last joy ride before i said goodbye. after my thrills, i kiss it and say goodbye! if i were a car salesman, i’d be a millionaire and would probably be driving a porsche like this. anyway, i close the deal and we sign the papers. the guy who bought the car asks me, “hey, what do you do for a living?” i answer “i’m a surfer.” the guy started laughing so loud that he almost fell off his chair. yeah, i was in short pants and tshirt and yeah, i’m a surfer. did i think it was so funny? not really.
so i have no car and no ride home. i walk into the Maserati showroom and tell the salesman, “hey, i want to test drive your best car in here.” he pulls out a $200,000 black beauty, i take the key, i drive it off the lot at 100mph. i jump on the freeway testing the limit at 200mph. i love the sound, i love the feel, and i love the speed.
my hair flying everywhere as i felt like i was getting spit out of a big pipeline barrel. the salesman was holding on for his dear life as he thought i was freaking crazy!
i look around, i play with the instruments, and i’m starting to like what i see.
i drive myself back to my truck, get out, shake the guys hand, and say thank you. then once i jump in the truck and start driving home, i felt like this was me. not a porsche, not a maserati, i love the ford 150! it was a great experience to understand what i really want and don’t want. all i want is a truck, good friends, good waves and a good surfboard. haha.
for the past 12 days, the surf has been as tiny as it can be. i’ve been loving it because it’s just what we need. super fun and super uncrowded. a new south swell is coming on tuesday so hawaii will wake up again. the whole surf community is waiting! but not me because i won’t be here.
