good evening. what another beautiful day we had here in hawaii. perfect sun, perfect winds, and perfect waves…..
i went to check pipe at 7:15am and this was the first time i felt sick watching the waves. why? because there was a bodyboard contest. it was perfect 8′ pipe and backdoor aframe peaks all over. shit, these guys always score… i was pretty sad leaving the parking lot heading towards haleiwa…..
pulled up to haleiwa before 8am. i knew it was going to be perfect because of the swell direction and winds. so i just parked my car and grabbed my board without even checking the waves. as i got to the beach, i only seen 4 guys out. what? i was thinking there was a shark or something. got out to the lineup and the waves were perfect 4-6′ peeling rights. i caught so many waves until my leash broke. had to swim against the current from the outside, which wasn’t too fun. grabbed another leash and my 6’2 and headed back out. little by little it started getting crowded and by 10am, there were 40 guys out. i had my fun in the morning so i just went in. then the winds came onshore right after. i took this photo at 11am. onshore but still fun. i guess it pays off to wake up early…
then headed to glenn minami’s shaping room to pick up a couple new boards. a 6’6 and 7’2. feels so good and can’t wait to ride it tomorrow….
i came home around lunch time and checked my email. paul gordinho sent me some photos from this morning. gosh, i felt like i was surfing haleiwa by myself. look how smooth and perfect the face is. not my face. the waves face….haha….. this was my 6’4 round pin matchi shape….
then here is the inside toilet bowl. i didn’t know i can still do turns like this. i was ready to give up surfing for bodyboarding already…. but i remember eating shit right after this frame. who cares, i got the shot…. thanks gordinho for letting me relive my super fun haleiwa surf session this morning. i’m going to be an early bird again tomorrow.
**i love my job… just thought i’d say that….
