good evening. gosh, what a long up and down day it was. first, i had an exciting night at the barrels bbq knowing that i had to wake up at 3:30 this morning. after ishino-san brought 3 bottles of jacksan out, i wasn’t sure what would happen today. luckily, my surfing sense got me up to use the bathroom at 4 am and from there, i was on my way for the long lonely 2.5 hour drive.
i swore that i wouldn’t post anything negative on my blog. so even after i had the worst surfing experiences of my life early in the morning, i won’t get into it. i was sad and disappointed, but the three breaths in yoga helped me shake it off….
moving on. i was invited to another pretty heavy localized river mouth a few days ago and after all the reports and stuff, i knew that today was the day! i get there by 6:30 am. i paddle out and was welcomed with so many happy faces. the vibe was good, the surfing level was high, and the respect between local and visiting surfers was present. one of the local surfers out there taught me something really valuable today. he taught me how to give. he taught me how to make a fellow surfer happy. he taught me that mutual respect can’t be broken. that local surfer is Fujikawa-san. he kept on giving me waves, “go kirby.” i was in a bit of daze???? what? me? shoots!!! on one of the waves he said go on, i pulled up into this big green barrel and all my troubles vanished in a second. i felt like a little kid again. i felt refreshed, i felt happy, and most importantly; i felt welcomed. you can’t beat that feeling….
maybe you forgot, but i still believe on paying it forward. if something good happens to me, i pass it on to 3 more people, and hopefully they can pass it on from there. when i get back to hawaii, i’m going to give the first 3 japanese surfers in see in the water my first 3 waves. i don’t care where their from, i don’t care who their sponsored by, and i don’t care how old they are. i’m just going to say “go, go, go!” and they don’t have to thank me, the person they should thank is Fujikawa-san…..
i just want to thank all the locals who made me feel so welcomed. and also thank all the locals that check out my blog. your always welcomed to hawaii and if i remember your face, i’ll give you any wave you want. thanks for making me feel like home….
if this mornings session was a dream, please don’t wake me up!!!
have a wonderful evening….
