another action packed day yesterday. went surfing with Takabayashi-san and his son Gen-kun. it was Gen-kun’s first time surfing and he was very nervous when i picked him up. i could tell because he didn’t even look at me, and hardly talked to me. i taught him slowly on land how to stand up, we paddled out, he caught his first wave, and then the hugest smile came out! the kid stood up perfectly on his first wave and every wave after that. i had him on a 11’0 and after an hour, i let him try a 9’0 and he surfed it perfectly. the 3 of us had such a great time for 3 solid hours of surfing wave after wave. then i ask Gen-kun what is his dream. he told me he had no dream until now. but after surfing so well, he told me his dream is to become a professional surfer. that’s awesome! at 11 years old and a father that surfs good, he has a good shot at his dream!
i finished work at 6:30pm, then drove like a maniac back home to drop off the boards, then even more crazy down to kapolei on west side for some more racing. there is a raceway park down there and it was my first time so i was excited like a little kid.
it was Maki-san’s birthday party that i wouldn’t miss for anything. an awesome surfer, an awesome person, and an awesome friend. Happy Birthday Maki-san!
this group of japanese girls stole the show last night. they were so competitive and hard core. they all wanted to win and did everything to do it. us guys were watching them race laughing so hard. i took some video that will make you laugh too.
birthdays are important even as we get older. and so are our friends. surfers forever!
ok, i leave tomorrow. where? i still don’t know. i don’t have a ticket, i didn’t pack, and i don’t see any big waves in sight. anybody know where i can go catch a big barrel at? i don’t even have time to check the forecast. i’ve been keeping in touch with friends in the japan, the philippines, and taiwan. none looking promising for good surf. so for now, i’m leaving monday morning for ????. your guess is as good as mine but all i know is that i’m boarding an airplane out of hawaii no matter what. my backpacking life continues….
