Taiwan Surf Day 2

288

ok, day 2. i fell asleep last night at 8:30pm then woke up at 5:30am. the best sleep i had in years! i grab my board, run outside to the beach, heavy rain, super strong winds, and nobody around. i get to the beach and the waves look like a washing machine. worth paddling out? no. i run in 7/11 to get a sandwich, run back to my room soaking wet, and now we’re waiting for the typhoon to move a little more north so the rain will stop and the winds will back down. this is how we chase typhoons and i love doing it. so far, planning to surf here another day, jump in the 2 hour taxi ride, jump on the high speed train, head to taipei airport, and fly north right on this typhoons ass.
taiwan is clean, safe, cheap, and a place you must visit someday. i’m sure i’ll be here again chasing typhoons because now i know how.
photo 1
there are cool little cities all over this beautiful country!
photo 5when i seen Beerlao in the refrigerator, i was stoked! taiwan is pushing this delicious beer from laos. when i went to laos 2 years ago, i drank this beer every night and loved it! so drinking it last night brought back the memories!
photo 2
this little surf city is cool! super cool feeling and super cool surfers. friendly all the way!
photo 3
it’s raining but what do you expect when you chase a typhoon. i’m pretty excited and enjoying this life i lived for the past 21 years. it’s not for everybody as things change by the minute. you just have to go with the flow!
photo 4
ok, ready for another war? ready to see the U.S flex its muscles by sending in missiles to syria? like i mentioned before, war is good for the U.S economy. if there’s a chance, we will take it. it’s a scary thought but expect a new war in the next few days.
F-22_lineup_Lockhead

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide