can’t believe it’s only been a week since i left hawaii. 5 flights, trains, taxis, busses, and cars. last flight leaving tonight from narita and i’m ready to go back home, sleep on my own bed, drive my own car, and do what ever i feel like doing. the first thing will be surfing for sure!
i’ve known Kazuma since he was born. at 14 years of age, i’m finally seeing the funny side of him. he’s smiling more, and making people laugh. oh, and surfing a lot better! this kid is okinawa’s future!
super stoked to see Hayato having a good life in okinawa. surfing/diving/traveling. that’s the dream life!!! never a boring day.
my friend Craig Sako is experimenting with organic umeshu. he told me it will be ready at the end of next year and i’m looking forward to trying it out.
my best session of this trip happened in Taiwan. beaches closed, typhoon near, nobody out, and it was ocean vs. man. the most challenging conditions but we managed to catch a few good ones. luckily Anan was on the beach documenting the whole thing. Kimura-san had my camera and photos will come as soon as i can download it on my card reader i forgot to bring.
surfing taiwan style. slow pace just like hawaii. that was a cool experience.
this is Tinmei, a taiwan longboard pro. Tinmei’s been following Go-Naminori so was stoked to meet her.
i scored these precious shells in taiwan that will go into my world shell collection.