40 days and 40 nights….

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good happy evening. wow, i can’t believe where i am? after 40 busy days and 40 busy nights, my body said “hey, slow down…” i was driving back from kochi to tokushima 3 days ago with no radio. i totally forgot i had songs in my iphone so i thew on my headset and started playing some hawaiian music. the 3 hour drive was one of the happiest drives ever. right when C & K came on, i said to myself “i’m freaking going home.” than that was that, and this is this.

i think i’m spoiled. to be able to pull up to any airport in any country at any time and jump on first or business class airplane is like a travelers dream. i want to thank my dear friend Delaine for making that dream come true. kanpai[:????????????:]

this was breakfast. you should have seen dinner…. omg….

after a deep sleep, i woke up, opened the window, and there it was, “HOME SWEET HOME.” blue sky, white sandy beaches, cool tradewinds, and rainbows everywhere. my smile went from ear to ear… this is paradise…

surfing was the last thing on my mind. i just wanted to feel the clean water and walk on the white sand so i took the 2 boys to bodysurf, bodyboard, and skimboard sandy’s. we had a blast!
**well, i’m only here for a week so i’m going to reset my body and mind. i think i need it because towards the end of my trip, i started getting frustrated about little things. things that usually don’t bother me were. and my friends would look at me and say “wow, you look tired.” yes i was. but after spending a beautiful day here in hawaii, i’m already refreshed, my mind is clear, and nothing in this world will bring me down. after this week, i’ll be ready for another 40 days and 40 nights. thank you to all my friends and supporters in japan that have put up with me. i really appreciate it and i’ll see you all again very soon… mahalo[:?????$B!x(B???:]

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide