slept so good last night! woke up super fresh, drank my kombucha, exercised for 15 min, then went surfing. by 10:30am, i already had a fulfilled wonderful day. the sky is blue, the water is warm, the people are friendly, and the waves were good. it feels good to be back home. right when i jumped into the water, i had a super exciting feeling and actually yelled “YEAH!!!” as it felt so good! i love traveling, but i also love hawaii.
had some photos left over on my desktop so uploading them now. Kenji Sahara was in hawaii a few weeks ago working hard as a professional photographer. i’ve known this guy forever!
always good to see my friends enjoying the very same ocean i enjoy! nice smile Kenji!
also had this sequence. i’ve known Kaito-kun for 3 years of his young 10 year life. being able to surf with him and enjoy the ocean every year is a dream to me. he was really scared the first time i took him surfing, but now, he’s confident, and ready for the challenge. i stay close to these kids all the time in the water talking to them, encouraging them, and laughing with them. then once i say “PADDLE!!!” it’s game on! this kid knows what to do from then.
then my camera records their smiles. bend your knees, look forward, and smile! the 3 keys to enjoy the ultimate ride. Kaito-kun couldn’t have done a better job.
and yes, good work deserves praise. in hawaii, we call this “high five.” such a cute kid with a cute smile! see you again Kaito-kun!
starting tomorrow, i’ll be in the ocean 2 or 3 times a day for the next 22 days. i’m looking forward to that!
