omg! what a beautiful day it was! woke up, did my morning exercises, headed out and couldn’t believe how blue the sky was. drove by the beach and it was just so beautiful. perfect waves, light winds, and a lot of happy surfers.
i pick up Suzuki-san and we surfed for 3 hours. i’m sure she felt pretty warm because she’s from cold hokkaido. she was telling me how cold it is there even in the summer.
diamond head was as clean as it gets. one of those few days of the year with perfect conditions and clear skies. you could see molokai so good today as the air was super clean.
then i picked up this lovely couple for round 2. Tadahiko-san and Yumiko-san are from tokyo so we know exactly how hot it’s been recently. lucky we have a free air conditioner called the “tradewinds” here in hawaii that cooled us off today. we dawn patrol tomorrow morning so hope you both get a good sleep tonight.
today was one of the clearest days of the year. you could see the people on the top of diamond head. we were up tantalas and i felt my body refreshing breathing the cleanest air in the world.
then we went to kewalo’s to watch the kids ripping up the sunset session. good to see world champion carissa moore back in town.
if you know me well, you know i suck at anything to do with art. i’m the worst when it comes to the artistic side. we were in okinawa and had a drawing contest. this is the horse i drew and i was super serious. if i was drunk, i’d have an excuse. but i was pure sober. haha.
i even signed my name under my horse because nobody could draw worst than me. Naozo-san’s horse on the bottom looked way better than mine. maybe because he lives on ishigaki island with a lot of horses?
going sleep, then going dawn patrol. my hawaiian style life is back to normal and i love it! good night!
