what another wonderful day in hawaii! the waves, weather, people, and everything was perfect! woke up at 4:30am feeling so fresh! picked up Shibata-san and Yumiko-san and headed to the beach for our dawn patrol session.
it feels so good waking up early and breathing in the fresh dawn air. then looking out to the orange sunrise making the clouds pink in the background. once you hit the water, you wake up, you feel fresh, and you’re ready to surf. today’s first session was at Kewalo’s because i knew that was going to be the biggest and best spot. and yes, it was! head high sets with perfect rights and lefts! only a few locals out sharing the waves with us. round 2 happened at one of my secret spots that i will keep secret. nobody out! haha!
after looking at the pink sky with the perfect waves in the background, i thought it might be a good idea to get a couple shot. love love means love love. this couple is in love love.
and yes, everybody wants to visit the most famous tree in hawaii! in my whole lifetime, i never even seen this tree. then from 4 years ago, i visited this place over a hundred of times. it’s a japanese must stop tourist destination. but wow, this tree is pretty dam big!
Shibata-san’s been surfing for 20 years. he knows how to surf, and he knows a lot about surfing. but the thing that stood out these past 2 days with Shibata-san was his mannerism. such a gentleman to his girlfriend, and even a gentleman to me. just always making sure that everything is ok. i thought that was cool. and Yumiko-san such a sweet girl. just sitting on the beach in the hot sun watching us surf 2 rounds. no complaining, just enjoying the moment. after 2 days with this couple, i learned something very important. i learned that i should be more of a gentleman. not only to women, but also to men. it felt good being treating in such a nice way. and it felt good watching how Shibata-san took care of his girlfriend. so i pledge to be a better gentleman from today. i will open more doors, i will give more compliments, and i will always say “yes, you are right.” haha.
thank you Shibata-san and Yumiko-san for the yoku moku! and thank you for a wonderful 2 days of fun!
last, do you see something weird in today’s japanese newspaper? look at the top left corner? ゴナミノーリー? is that Go-Naminori?
