yesterday was an awesome day. it’s the 3rd time in 3 years i surfed with Nakamoto-san and i was super happy to see him getting better and better. he loves surfing, he loves hawaii, and he loves food! thank you for a wonderful morning surf!
then round 2 in the afternoon and the waves were perfect! i’d say the conditions and wave quality was a 100 points out of 100. just pure glassy and pure perfect! today was about the 400th time in the past 2.5 years i surfed with Inaida-san and Yuki-san. improving every session and loving life more and more.
Yuki-san is pretty brave. if a 10′ wave comes in and i say “go!”, Yuki-san would go!
Inaida-san caught a pretty big wave today and looked very calm. he has good boards, he has good sense, and he has good style. surfing is our life! thank you Inaida-san and Yuki-san for all the fun and all the support!
last, we see turtles everyday. to swim with them is amazing. thank goodness i had my camera yesterday. this shot is a keeper. Yuki-san and turtle hand in hand. what an amazing world we live in. when ever i see turtles, it reminds me of the book i read as a child called “Urashima Taro.” that why i like to ride turtles deep down into the deep blue sea. if i come back, ok, if i don’t come back, ok. i’m living in a dream anyway so what ever happens happens.
