Deep in the Forest

183

wow, the waves were absolutely perfect again today. head high sets at Bowls and perfect glassy conditions. i paddled out expecting to get a couple waves, but ended up surfing for over 2 hours because the waves kept on getting better and better. no sunscreen so super sunburnt. took a hike deep into the mountains in the afternoon and the air was so fresh! what a cool place to be able to surf and go deep into nature in a matter of minutes.
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want to cool down? just head to the mountain and the cool fresh air is the best way to do so. every breath taking in fresh clean air, and letting out stress. nobody around so it’s just you and the birds.
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right now is ginger season so there are ginger blooming everywhere! along with the mountain apples, guava, and other fruit, the mountain smells like an open flower and fruit shop!
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then you have free flowers blooming everywhere.
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and free guavas. great for smoothies. then i went back into the concrete honolulu jungle and my first breath was carbon monoxide exhaust from the bus. yuck!
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been seeing these drones recently? i see them flying all over the place. one just crashed into a crowd of spectators at an event in america. if someone dies, who is responsible? and can i just buy one and fly it over my friends houses and stuff? where’s the line?

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide