good evening. i had a great time today with Tsukamoto-san from fukuoka. we surfed bowls for 3.5 hours and the waves were soooo good! it was the first swell in 2 months and everybody was so happy. the locals were happy, the tourist were happy, and i was happy. that is what surfing is all about!!! everybody happy! “WELCOME TO HAWAII!!”
the first swell in a long time for the guys in town. kewalo’s is probably the heaviest local spot on the south shore. everybody is welcomed, but not guaranteed to catch a wave. but if you do, your going to score!!! the waves are going off!!! see you tomorrow in the water… oyasumi..
