Big and Slow!

258

photo 1
when ever i travel, i always keep about a hundred dollars in that countries currency. i keep it as a memory, and i keep it to make me want to go back and spend it. 18 years ago backpacking taiwan was much different than now. the money back then was pure. so pure that it can’t even be used these days. i couldn’t spend it, and the bank wouldn’t change it for the new printed money. so now i’m stuck with a hundred dollars in useless taiwan currency. useless to use, but still such a great memory of my 2 backpacking trips 18 years ago.
photo 3
this is the new currency. looks a lot different huh.
CIMG2331
want to thank Tobeey-san in japan for the typhoon update. yes, i know i’m too late for typhoon 18, but i’m looking at 19 right behind it. that one i might be right on time!
typhoon-i
small and fast. that’s 2 things i don’t like when looking at typhoons. i like them big and slow. the bigger makes bigger waves. the slower makes more days of surf. typhoon 18 will probably produce 1 good day of surf and the rest rain and bad winds. not the kind of typhoon i would spend thousands of dollars chasing. typhoon 19 is forming as we speak and that one should be much bigger and slower. everyday things change so everyday my schedule changes. i won’t know where i will go or even if i will go until the morning i decide to leave. keep you posted.
as for now, going to ride the perfect waves in hawaii. gosh, the waves and conditions have been amazing for the past week. yesterday i had one of my best sessions of the whole summer! good waves and good board equals good life! surf your dream!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide