good sunday morning. i’m so happy! the waves are still here! sunny, warm, and looking good! i’m going surfing all day again. see you in the water!!! oh, heard another typhoon is heading to japan. i’m ready! i should be getting some calls soon and if you see me in japan in a day or so, don’t be surprised. i’m not done chasing typhoons and i’m looking forward to the next one… have a nice day….
i just downloaded the photos from the go-naminori party. gosh, there were so many happy faces! this girl scored! imagine coming to a party and walking home with this? a lot of people wanted kelia’s longboard and the bummer is that only one could win it. maybe next year she can give 10 longboards away?
WAX ON… WAX OFF…. i spent 2 hours in the sun yesterday waxing my car. it’s been sitting on the street for over a month with bird shit all over it. kawaiso datta… now it’s as clean as can be. i love my clean car!!!
and last, check out this old school photo from 14 years ago in bali. no cell phones and no internet. it was just pure everyday surfing, and pure every night drinking! i wish i could go back to those days cause these days are so dam complicated… “did you call home? did you do your blog? did you see the surf forecast?” please, i don’t want to hear any of that after getting barreled all day at padang padang…. all i want is my cold bintang and my friends to enjoy what happened earlier that day…. matchi, budin, noboru-san, watanabe-san, ganti, me, and a bunch of the hard core japanese and balinese surfers that we met along the way. pure surfing is pure happiness…
