gosh, i’ve been so busy that this whole hype on typhoon 18 tired me out. i was determined to go to either japan, taiwan, or the philippines. my friends said everywhere will be good this weekend. i worked every single day since i came back to hawaii so i was looking forward to jumping on an airplane again. then as i was booking my ticket last night, i added up the money i would spend to chase typhoon 18. once it went over $1,000, i had second thoughts. then the waves are supposed to be good for a day and a half? then i thought to myself “hey, i’m not a millionaire surfer.” i can’t be flying around the world spending thousands of dollars chasing waves for a day or two. so reality set in and i decided to cancel this weekend trip. if i had a million dollars, i would be on my flight today, but i’m not. so i’ll stay here in hawaii this weekend, surf the new south swell coming, maybe go for a dive, hang out with friends, and live my normal lifestyle. not too bad.
look what typhoon 18 did to some parts of japan. crazy.
i had a great time surfing with Sasaki-san last week. just to show him the hawaiian locals style of surfing was fun. a super cool guy and a great surfer. i wanted to say hello again to Onose-san from Wedge Surf in ibaraki. thank you for the email and thank you for introducing me to Sasaki-san. keep on surfing and hope to surf with you guys in ibaraki someday!
we paddle out and i ask Sasaki-san “hey, do you know Wade Tokoro?” he said “of course!” i introduce them, they shake hands, we take a photo, and Sasaki-san was stoked. Wade is one of the most famous shapers in the world. he’s like a superstar to many in japan. one of the nicest guys and greatest surfer you will ever meet.
i received an email from Masamune-kun’s mother. check it out!
こんにちは。今日のブログを読みました。
マサムネのことを気にかけて下さってありがとうございます。彼は先週末、鳥取の方へサーフィンへ行きました。雨の中でしたが朝方は波があり、すぐに波をキャッチしたようです。一緒に行った友人も褒めてくれました。
とても危なっかしいんですが、マサムネはボードを自分で運びたがります。カービーさんに言われたからなんですね。フィンも自分で付けました、自信に満ちた笑顔で笑っています。また近いうちに海へ行くと思いますよ。
カービーさんが日本へ来られる時に会えたらいいなと思います。
ありがとうございます。
Aloha Kirby!
I read your blog today. Thanks for caring about Masamune. He went to surfing at Tottori last sunday.It was rainy, but there were some good waves and he caught that easily. My friends who went to surfing with Masamune praised him.
Anyway, Masamune wants to carry his board by himself. It looks very dangerous because he seems to hit the board somewhere. But now I understood why he wants to do!!! He can put the fins in, and he is smiling confidently. He will go surfing in the near future. I hope to see you when you are in Japan.
Mahalo!
Masamune-kun has a new fan club. a lot of people talk about this amazing kid. from day 1 to day 3, we seen a boys smile go from big, to bigger, to biggest. i was really wondering how he was doing in japan and when his mother sent me the email, it made me so happy. and now, i have a message for him:
“hello Masamune-kun! i’m so happy to hear that you got to go surfing. and i’m happy to hear you remembered how to put your fins on, how to wax your board, and how to carry your own board. do everything you can in life, build confidence, try hard, never give up, and keep on surfing! oh, and most important, “KEEP ON SMILING! can’t wait to see you again.”
