wow, the surfing mannerism has just been so crazy these days out at ala moana. yesterday i surfed 2 rounds and it was super dangerous. one japanese girl took off on the left, she surfed the wave super out of control, then as she came near me, she shot her board at me. luckily i caught it with my hand. she said sorry but she sure didn’t sound too sorry. then right after, a japanese guy took off on the outside, he could have went the other way but when i seen him look straight at me, i knew i was in trouble. he ran me straight over my head and luckily i dove deep enough so the fin didn’t slice my head open. it’s kind of getting out of control these days with a lot of tourist surfers. nobody is enforcing the rules anymore and it’s a matter of time somebody is going to get seriously hurt, or seriously beaten up. as for now, i’m just going to stay out of the way and if somebody runs me over again, i’m going to go to the outside, catch a set, and run them over. then do it again and again. i think that’s the only way some people learn.
was super happy to skype my friends in okinawa. just wanted to know how the waves were and wanted to wish Kimura-san a happy birthday. just so happen, Satoru-san walked in the door.
then Kazubo-san walked in right after. what perfect timing! i actually felt like i was right there.
i want to thank Katsura-san for always bringing me snacks from japan. the nuts are my favorite!!! good with beer!
and was watching the kids bake last week. it’s unbelievable how creative young kids are now days. is that cookie monster?
